12/21/12

Bandipur, Ramkot and bloody Gorka

Tuesday
I hiked to the little village 2 hours away from Bandipur. The trail let around and over the hills, with nice views of the valley bellow.
Ramkot makes you feel like you got back into 18Th century. Little houses, gardens and fields, domestic animals. I got to see some of the original round houses too. I started talking to one girl and asking her mostly about what they had drying on the sheets of  fabric in front of the houses. Beans, corn, wheat. She took me  me around the house to the back where other girl was grinding the corn on hand powered stone mill.
 I was walking around feeling bit out of place. Only few tourists make it here and there are not any stores or restaurants.  Just the village, the way it is and always has been.






Wednesday
I spent the  day walking around Bandipur, taking last few pictures of the town. I sat in the sun on my favorite spot in the field on the ridge above the town, looking at the distance Himalayas. I finished the book I picked at my hotel. It is time to move on.
I will leave tomorrow morning, I will miss Bandipur.







Gorka
Last breakfast in Bandipur, I enjoyed sitting outside, watching the sunrise over the hills.
I was lucky to get on the right bus, it took me all the way to where I needed to get to the bus to Gorka. The driver liked to drive fast and he was speeding down the hill, cutting the sharp turns. I got of in Abu Khaireni and people directed me to my next bus.
There was one  getting ready to leave. They tossed my backpack on the roof and I got super spot in the front, between the driver and other 2 men. Tight squeeze for sure, the shifts stick rubbing on my leg. Hour ride and we were in Gorka.
Gorka has none of the charm of Pokhara and Bandipur. It is dirty, loud and even the old town is not much impressive. I came here to see the Gorka Durbar, the palace and temple, on the top of the hill.
I found room in rather run down, cheep hotel in the old town and set up to hike the 1500 steps to the temple.
Lots of locals heading up the hill too, some of them with goats in tow.
I was almost at the top of the steps when I noticed people carrying heavy plastic bags down the hill, so I peeked in to see what is inside and..... yes in deed .... baby goat with the head cut of.... so the red dots I saw on the steps were blood....I was trying to not get sick, as there were more and more bloody bags being carried around.
I made it to the gate and paid the 50 rupees for me and 200 for my camera and I went in exploring. There was a long line to the temple, people waiting with their goats, that were about to be sacrificed.
I walked around looking at the beautiful wood carvings framing the doors and windows. There was a second temple, there were people getting blessings from holy man. This was the place where roosters were waiting with their owners for blessings.







The walkway on the back side of the palace had views of the Himalayas. I found the Royal Guest House and thank to Lonely Planet book, noticed the erotic motives carved into the wood. I just had to take pictures for you my friends!


I walked one more time around the temples, told good bye to all the animals and started the 1500 steps down to town. I stopped at one of the fast food stops on the side and bought a healthy snack ( Nepali version of doughnut,  freshly fried, still dripping the oil.... yummy!)

Friday
I am back in Pokhara. I had to take bunch of local buses. There was a strike at the bus station and most direct buses got canceled. My old room was available and I felt like coming home. Pokhara is getting all decorated with preying flags hanging over the main street. The Street Festival should be big event. I hope it will be fun way to celebrate NYE.